Friday, January 05, 2007

Kondakarla-va

Destination KONDA KARLA-VA

Cradled in the foothills of the Eastern Ghats is the beautiful lake of Konda Karla-va; and my wanderings took me to this very vibrant lake. Here, I met my friend the forest watcher who is a knowledgeable chap, but alas! He spoke in Telugu; and though I am good at it – though the accent terrible – I could not fathom the names of birds he reeled off. Therefore, with a field guide full of pictures as interpreter and two good pairs of binoculars, we set off on one of the most thrilling bird watching trips I have undertaken so far.

Birding on foot, bi-cycles, motor vehicles and boats are all too familiar. What I had never dreamed was a bird watching trip on a lake seated on an up-turned charpoy (cot made of wood and ropes) that acts as a vice in holding the two Palmyra palm dugouts together. My friend the local birdwatcher, employed with the forest department and I set out on this contraption propelled by two pole wielding, able-bodied fishermen, who rigged this thing together. I was a little worried when I saw that the cone shaped dugouts not tied or nailed, but married together by this rhomboid and inverted charpoy. Moreover, the cause for concern was their divorce in mid-waters over some disagreement, which was a grave possibility.

The biomechanical propellers propelled us noiselessly through the Typha and weeds, and there amongst the reeds we spied the Blue-breasted Banded Rail that quietly stalked the stalks, looking intently, while keeping very still for any frogs, fish or insects that might put in an appearance. The Ruddy Crakes kept flying about; their legs dangling crimson red – seeming more like weeds in which they live – under them. Attention is always arrested by music, and I being no exception; stopped. The Large Reed Warblers were pouring out their liquid song perched atop the grasses and sedges from which we now emerged that lined the lakeshore.

I then saw a very exuberant lot of purple flash in very green, young paddy. The Purple Moorhen were at work, bringing to naught the toils of a farmer with zeal. Not too far from this rabble of smartly liveried rouges in purple vesture, red skull caps, masks and red stockings, was a flock of Whimbrel - the drably clothed plain Janes - heads bowed, probing the mud with their down curved bills – feeling downcast - for whatever they eat, conscious of their fancifully dressed, vociferous and cocky neighbours.

As the rigged contraption moved into the lake, little ducks flew all around us; emerald green with white lace work screaming in a very guttural army sergeants’ voice commanding all their kind to “Fix your Bayonet”; and like an air force of Lilliputs took off from close to a couple of blundering Gullivers on their bird watching expedition. These were the tiny Cotton Teal – the smallest of ducks in India.

Looking into the waters was like looking at the overgrown head of Medusa the Gorgon; tendrils of water plants spiralling up and swaying gently in the currents, belying their strength to snare some unfortunate. The water lilies festooned the surface with their multi-coloured flowers, as if an adornment on her head.

In the distance was a very hazy grey in a trellis of Ipomoea. I looked hard to decipher the mass. A plume raised some movement about, all suddenly bobbing; the branches of the Ipomoea, on closer examination seemed festooned with the same grey fleece. A closer and better look from another angle showed them as the Asian Open-billed Storks. We moved further to see a large flock of swordsmen prodding and probing an unplanted, squelchy plot of land. The Godwits were having a field day picking the worms and crustaceans that lurk under the surface. Little Stints were running in a frenzy and then, as if on cue, took off from a little patch they called runway. Their aerial display kept us from going further and their orderly mad flight had the same effect on their friends in a neighbouring patch. They joined forces and flew formations that would put the best air force to shame.

The gullible terns or were they Gull-billed Terns (?) flew all over, turning and diving into the lake and then, escaping Medusa’s tresses. They were a dainty picture in their white angelic attire as they milled about and showed off - as a white and silver shimmer - in the afternoon sun. The Jacanas, both the Bronze-winged and the Pheasant-tailed were trying to impress the others of their prowess to walk the adornment on Medusa’s head. The afternoon sun showed them off as very glamorous and dainty models walking the ramp. They seemed to know, or, why would they stop in mid-step, raise a wing and stretch a leg and beacon to a crowd of an assortment of life forms. They were big flirts too! The Red Crested Pochards were red in the face with the antics of the Jacanas. They swam with dignity and kept pretty much to themselves; having a proud air about them, moving with other expatriates – the handsome purple-brown crowned, white eye-browed, blue winged - blue blooded Adonis - the Garganey Teal and the Common Teal sporting the mask of Zorro. Then, on the shores, we chanced upon the Ruffs – not roughnecks – and their petite Reeves that were industriously helping a farmer get rid of the little insects and worms undermining his crops. They also, I am sure took some earthworms, but then is not it a bonus and a treat?!

After watching them and many more such dramas which had un-folded before us, we repaired back to where we started; my friend the birdwatcher enjoying the trip as much as I did, having got for the first time an unlimited use of a pair of binoculars and a field guide full of pictures!





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3 Comments:

At 7:18 PM , Blogger eHyderabad said...

Hi,

I found your blog when i was researching about Kondakarla lake. I an Indian living in the US and planning to get back to India. I am looking do farming around Kondakarla area. This blog helped me a lot. btw i love bird watching . please do let me know more about the place.
ragsat20s@gmail.com

 
At 1:12 AM , Blogger KB said...

This comment has been removed by the author.

 
At 1:19 AM , Blogger KB said...

My report of a visit to Kondakarla yesterday...

Hi
In Visakhapatnam on a work related visit, I had the opportunity to visit Kondakarla lake yesterday afternoon.

First the highlight: a male Masked Finfoot was seen feeding in the half submerged grasses at the margins of the lake. With just its head and neck out, it was first seen almost as soon as I arrived and was still there when I returned an hour later after watching other birds at the lake. On my closer approach, it later flew away towards the other bank of the jheel.This really is an exciting find for the area. Masked Finfoot is a globally vulnerable species that has been reported from Sundarbans. As I am here for another ten days, if there's anyone who lives at Visakhapatnam and is keen to look for this bird, I would be happy to accompany.

Other highlights here included three bitterns - Black, Cinnamon & Yellow Bitterns; about half a dozen of each were seen flying about over the reeds at the margins of the jheel. Scores of splendid Bronzewinged and Pheasant-tailed Jacana and Little Grebe in breeding plumage; the trilling call of the last carrying far over the languid waters of the lake. Also many overflying Blue-tailed Beeeaters, Black-crowned Night Herons and Lesser Whistling Ducks. No other wintering waterfowl as yet except many Common Coots. The tall reeds had their share of Purple Gallinules, Common Coots, Purple Herons, Pond Herons etc. As the dusk descended hordes of Baya Weavers came to roost in these reeds while Rosy Starlings could also be seen coming in big flocks to roost on the nearby trees.

Earlier in the morning, I looked for Yellow-throated Bulbul along the Dolphin hill road where I had seen two of them during my earlier last visit here in May this year. No luck today though there were many White-browed Bulbul along with other congeners - Red-whiskered & Redvented. Also close encounter with an Indian Eagle Owl here sitting at its usual roost where the road cuts through the hillsides.

I wonder if anyone has an updated checklist of birds of Visakhaptnam region. I have a copy of Mr Krishna Raju's Checklist (1985) of the region which lists c300 species. It is immensely useful or even indispensable as the hill areas of local E Ghats are very well covered but its surely incomplete. During my few visits to Visakhaptnam, I have already encountered many species not listed in it including the three Bittern species mentioned above, Bronzewinged Jacana and of course, the Masked Finfoot.

 

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